How to Fix a Scratched CD?

While compact discs (CDs) are remarkably durable, it’s nearly impossible to prevent scratches and scuffs from occurring from time to time. The resulting damage can be either a skip in your favorite music track or, in the case of data CDs, the loss of that spreadsheet you worked on for two weeks. Don’t despair — repair! While commercial CD repair kits and CD refinishing machines are available, you may be able to repair the damage on your own with products you already have.

1. Clean the disc. Even if the disc isn’t actually scratched or scuffed, dust, oil, and other surface contaminants can prevent it from playing properly. Thus cleaning the disc should always be your first move.
   • Run warm water over the damaged disc to remove dust.
   • If there is stubborn dirt or grease on the disc, gently rub it with your finger while you are washing it, and use a gentle detergent or liquid soap (with the water) or rubbing alcohol (instead of water). Any time you rub or wipe a CD, you should do so by starting at or near the center of the disc and rubbing straight outward toward the edge to prevent further scratching.
   • Shake the water off and let the disc air-dry (do not dry it with a towel or cloth, and don’t penetrate the centre either).
2. Try to play the disc. Many times a good shafting is all that is needed. If, however, problems persist after cleaning, try to play the disc in a different CD player. Some players handle scratches better than others; computer CD drives and car stereos tend to be the best.
3. Burn a new disc. If you can get the CD to work in one CD player – especially your computer’s – but not in others, try burning a new disc. The CD burner on your computer may be able to read the CD well enough to produce a perfect copy. You may wish to try this even if the CD doesn’t play correctly on the computer.
4. 

   Locate the scratch. Actually looking at the disc will be easier if you can figure out where the offending scratch is. Visually inspect the CD’s playing surface for scratches or scuffs.

   • Scratches that run perpendicular to the CD’s spiral – that is, those that run generally from the center to the rim – may not affect playing at all, and in any case are generally less damaging than those that roughly follow the direction of the spiral. The latter indicates the loss of many consecutive data bits, which may make it difficult for the Reed-Solomon error correction algorithm to guess the missing data.
   • If there are several scratches, but the CD only skips in one or two places, you may be able to approximate the location of the offending scratches based on which track skips. The first track of a CD begins near the center, and the direction of play proceeds outward to the edge.
5. Engage in data recovery. Many burning programs can be set to continue reading after getting an error (such as not being able to read a section due to a scratch). If the program can’t read a section at all, it will fill it with random data. They can also try to read the bad section by reading at a very slow speed multiple times.
   • For Windows, Nero does this; Linux has the Ddrescue tool. This can often fix damaged CD’s, and is especially effective with audio CD’s (where accuracy isn’t as important).
   • Also, this doesn’t risk damaging the CD, so it is a good idea to try this before trying the more drastic methods listed below. If they damage the disk, the data recovered by this method can still be used. Note that due to the slow reading, and multiple attempts at trying to read a damaged section, these programs can take a very long time to complete (a Windows XP disk recovered with this method took about 2 hours).
6. Polish the CD. WARNING: this can damage the disk further! Use only as a last resort, and read the instructions carefully!! Though counter-intuitive, polishing a disc can repair a scratched CD by removing some of the outer plastic coating and thus making existing scratches shallower. A number of common household products can be used to polish the CD, but toothpaste— especially baking soda toothpaste — and Brasso are probably the most tried and true. You can also use a fine-grit polishing compound that’s used for cars or hard finishes.
   • Apply a small amount of toothpaste (must be paste, not gel) or Brasso to a soft, clean, lint-free (old undershirt) cloth: an eyeglass-cleaning cloth works well.
   • Gently rub the cloth on the scratch or scuff in a radial motion, (start at the center and rub out to the edge, like spokes on a wheel). Do this 10 or 12 times all around the CD. Rubbing in a circular motion can cause small scratches that throw off the laser tracking system in the player. Try to focus your efforts solely on the scratch or scratches you’ve identified (if possible).
   • Polish in this manner for a couple of minutes, reapplying Brasso or toothpaste to the cloth as necessary. Be careful not to apply much pressure, although you will still be able to feel the cloth gently rubbing the CD as it polishes.
7. Remove polishing product from disc. If you used toothpaste, rinse the disc thoroughly with warm water and let dry. Make sure to remove all of the toothpaste and let the disc dry completely before trying to play it. With Brasso, wipe off excess product and let the rest dry. Then, using a clean cloth, gently wipe disc again.
8. 

   Test the disc. If the problem persists, polish again for up to 15 minutes or until the scratch is almost completely buffed out. The surface around the scratch should begin to look shiny with many tiny scratches. If you still don’t notice any difference after polishing for a few minutes, the scratch may be extremely deep, or you may be polishing the wrong scratch.

9. If disk is still not operational, take the disk to a trained professional at a gaming store.

Wax Method

1. 

   Wax the tracks. If polishing doesn’t work, apply a very thin coat of Vaseline, liquid car wax, neutral shoe polish, or furniture wax to the CD’s playing surface.

2. 

   Wipe excess off using clean, soft, lint-free cloth in a radial (inside to outside) motion. If using wax, follow manufacturer’s instructions (some need to dry before you wipe them off, while others should be wiped off while still wet).

3. Test the disc again. If the wax or Vaseline does the trick, burn a new copy of the CD immediately. The waxing method is only a temporary solution.

Light-Bulb Method

Note: This method does not always work, but it’s fairly simple and worth a shot.

1. Turn on your desktop lamp, or any other lamp with a 60W incandescent filament bulb (DJs usually use the small lamp they use for finding their CD’s).
2. Hold the CD with your forefinger in the center opening and the recorded side towards the lamp. The distance from the bulb should be about 10 cm (4 in).
3. Hold it there for about 20 seconds, rotating it slowly around your forefinger. Then, while it’s still hot, play it in the CD drive.

Professional Refinish Method

1. Have the CD professionally refinished. If the disc still doesn’t play correctly, bring it in to a music store (especially one that sells used CDs) or a DVD rental store and ask if they can repair the disc for you. #*Many of these businesses have CD refinishing machines that do a remarkable job, and they’ll probably charge you less than five dollars to repair the CD.
2. If you have a lot of discs to repair, you might want to buy a CD refinishing machine. These can cost as little as $25, but highly effective industrial machines cost anywhere from $300-6,000. You can search the internet for companies which build and market these.

Repair Foil Scratches

1. To determine if you have a scratch in your disc’s foil, hold it in clear view of a light, shiny side up. Look to see if there are any small areas of the disc that show signs of the foil missing.
2. Flip the disc Logo side up, and mark where these areas are with a whiteboard marker pen.
3. Get 2 small strips of masking tape, and lay them one on top of each other over the area you have just marked. The CD may run a little loudly, but it will more than 70% likely repair the little missing pieces of foil.

Edit Tips

• Tracks on a musical CD go from the inside to the outside of the disk. Thus, scratches in the shape of a concentric circle is cause the most damage due to the interruption of many consecutive data bits. This means that the Reed-Solomon error correction algorithm could fail to apply guesses and generate the missing data.
• If it still does not work after you tried everything, use it as a coaster for your beverages.
• Severely damaged CDs may not be repairable. Very deep scratches and cracks that reach the CD’s foil may render a CD forever useless. It doesn’t take much to damage a CD. As a matter of fact, the Disc Eraser utilizes this principle to render CDs and DVDs unreadable, which is useful to have if you want to get rid of sensitive discs.
• You can buy a disc scratch remover at game stores. It works for all types of CDs that have light scratches.
• To determine if the foil layer of your CD is scratched, hold the CD up to a fairly bright light and see if any pinholes are visible. Holes in the foil layer of a CD are generally not repairable, even for a professional.
• Use a quality CD Drive from a desktop computer. If you are trying to read a dual layer disc or scratched disc with a front loaded (slip in) CD drive, like the ones on Mac Books or Mac Book Pros. You can pretty much forget about getting a good read. These drives are notorious for having poorly calibrated/calibrating lasers and are practical useless for anything but brand new unscratched CDs. This has been documented by one repair technician in more than 10 mac books / pros.
• Practice repairing scratched CDs that you don’t care much about before you set out to repair your favorites.
• It’s a good idea to create a backup of any data disc before damage occurs.
• If a CD is scratched but continues to play correctly, make a backup, but don’t bother trying to repair it yet.
• Make sure the disc is indeed scratched. If the disc is not visibly scratched, the problem likely lies elsewhere. Other problems could be surface dirt or a malfunctioning CD player. The steps above should help you to clarify where the problem is.
• Deep gouges are not repairable. However, because of the way redundancy is used in the data on the disc and the way the data are distributed along the spiral track, cleaning a disc area away from a scratch can improve data recovery; a number of smaller defects distributed along the track can be as bad or worse than one larger defect.
• The polycarbonate bottom layer of the disk acts as a lens, which focuses a larger patch of laser light down to a smaller size needed to see the track on the data layer. This lets the laser look through some small imperfections on the plastic surface which are much larger than the track on the data layer. Removing a lot of plastic can affect the refractive property of the lens making the data unreadable. This means that even a visibly scuffed or spider-web of scratches may play well because, though the defects are visible to your eye, the laser sees around/through them. This is why waxing can help. A repair doesn’t have to look perfectly polished to work.
• If the disc has important data on it, your best choice is probably to pay the money to get the disc repaired professionally before you try to repair it yourself. That way, you can make sure you don’t damage the CD any further in your repair attempts.
• A number of CD cleaning and repair kits are available for sale, but many users report that these don’t work any better than Brasso, and they’re far more expensive.
• To remove deep or stubborn scratches quickly, try using a dry “Mr. Clean Magic Eraser”. This is a sponge impregnated with a micro abrasive. Use light pressure, wiping from the center of the disk to the outside edge just as described with other polishing methods. The repaired area can be buffed until shiny using the other polishing or waxing techniques described.
• If the disc is an Xbox 360 game, attempt to return it for an exchange. Your mileage may vary, but Microsoft saved about 25¢ on the build cost of the Xbox 360 by not including safety measures which would prevent a lot of scratches. Most stores have deals worked out with the distributors to where they can get credit for damaged discs, but only discs that were damaged inside the 360. Such discs will have deep radial scratches, sometimes not around the entire circumference of the disc. It couldn’t hurt to try. (Try a few stores actually, the worst they can do is say no.)
• Also, with Xbox 360 disks, if you use one of the temporary methods, you can install the game to the hard drive by going to the game library, clicking on the game, then install game. this doesn’t always work, as the Xbox has to access the disk to verify it as legit.
• Also when cleaning with rubbing alcohol it is best if you use a cute tip for cleaning the disc since all cute tips are is cotton which is what is recommended to use to clean a disc.

Edit Warnings

• A CD’s data is actually stored in microscopic grooves in material immediately under the thin but fairly hard paint side, which would bear any label.^[1]. Generally one leaves that side alone and repairs a disk’s readability by smoothing defects in the thick clear-plastic side, through which a light shines to read the data.
• If you hold the CD up to a bright light to check for holes in the foil layer, remember not to stare at the light for long. A 60-100 Watt bulb should be more than enough to see pinholes in the foil layer. Do not use the sun!
• Doing this incorrectly (e.g. applying too much pressure while polishing or rubbing the CD in a circular motion) may shorten the life of a CD.
• To prevent damage to your CD player, make sure CDs are completely dry and free of excess polishing products or waxes before you attempt to play them.
• If you are using Brasso, make sure to do so in a well-ventilated area, and avoid breathing in the fumes. Always read the safety instructions and warnings on any chemical product as many (such as rubbing alcohol) are flammable and / or can cause skin, eye, or respiratory irritation.
• When touching the CD do not use a circular pattern (circumferential pattern, like when a CD is spinning). Go from the inside to the outside in a perfect line (a radial pattern) so you prevent data loss.
• When polishing the disc, make sure the surface upon which the disc is laid is flat and firm but not hard or abrasive. Data is stored on the foil or dye layers on the top of the disc (label side) and the protective top layer is very thin by comparison to the polycarbonate plastic bottom layer you will polish. The thin top layer can easily be scratched or perforated. If this happens the data is lost forever as it is not repairable by any means. Pressing on a disc upon too soft a surface may crack it or cause it to de-laminate.
• Don’t touch the CD, or you’ll leave finger prints, causing it to get dirty again, and that may cause the CD to skip a track or pause. Hold it by the hole in the middle.
• No solvent is to be applied as this shall change the chemical composition of the polycarbonate substrate resulting in an opaque finish and an unreadable disc!
• When trying the procedure described in step 3, don’t hold the disc near the light bulb for more than 20 seconds. Even a 60W bulb produces enough heat to melt the CD if exposed longer than 30-40 seconds.
• Understand that you can cause further damage if you use toothpaste. It may scratch it even more.
• If you decide to try these steps witha DVD then please be careful to never ever wipe a cloth on the side with the title of the DVD. Doing so will completely ruin your DVD. So instead just brush the plain silver side.

Edit Things You’ll Need

• Clean, soft, lint-free cloth (microfiber cloths are excellent)
• Water (or rubbing alcohol)
• Brasso metal polisher, fine polishing compound or toothpaste
• Liquid car wax or Vaseline (optional)
• Cotton gloves or plastic food-handling gloves make handling CDs easier.
• A Lamp

Want to buy a Car – Petrol OR Diesel ?

It’s been a long debate over which car to buy a diesel or petrol. Almost all of us go through this when buying a new car. With lot of cars coming in both hatchback and sedan segment the question is becoming tough to answer. Diesel being cheap in costing is the very first reason to buy a diesel car but does it really suits you because the initial cost of a diesel car is way high then of its petrol version .let’s take a look on a few issues while choosing a petrol version or a diesel version. To simplify the difference lets study with some examples……

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Petrol v/s diesel – On road price (ex-showroom + registration +Insurance)

1. Ford Figo Zxi – on road price

Petrol – Rs 4, 91,833

Diesel – Rs 5,97,133

Difference in initial costing – Rs 1,05,300

2. Maruti swift dzire vxi v/s vdi – on road price

Vxi – Rs 6,15,425

Vdi – Rs 7,35,503

Difference in initial costing – Rs 1,20,078

3.Hyundai i20 magna petrol v/s magna diesel – on road price

Magna petrol – Rs 5, 57,723

Magna diesel – Rs 7, 12,759

Difference in initial costing – Rs 1, 55,036

So we can easily deduce that on an average the difference between a petrol version and its diesel version ranges to 1, 20,000to 1,50,000 and let’s take the average i.e. Rs 1,35,000 for further calculations.

Petrol cost – Rs 75.00/ltr *

Diesel cost – Rs 50.00/ltr *

Petrol car mileage – city – 14/ltr, highway – 18/ltr, average – 15/ltr

Diesel car mileage – city – 16/ltr, highway – 20/ltr, average – 17/ltr

*Assumed prices including future hike in price – data August 15, 2011

Case I – Monthly run of 1000 kms or less (yearly – 12000)

• Consumption of petrol car in ltr – 12000/15=800 ltr (total kms/km per ltr).

Total amount spent on petrol = 800 ltr * 75.00 Rs/ltr = Rs 60,000.

• Consumption of diesel car in ltr – 12000/17=706 ltr (total kms/km per ltr).

Total amount spent on diesel = 706 ltr * 50.00 Rs/ltr = Rs 35,300

So the difference in amount spent on diesel and petrol is Rs 24,700 per year. In comparison to the amount you paid earlier for a diesel car is Rs 1, 35,000 more. Further if u took loan then you paid an extra interest on Rs 1, 35,000 to bank for say a five year loan i.e. @ 12.5%per annum so the extra interest u paid is 47,233. So a total of Rs 1, 82,233. Taking the saving per year and the extra cost I paid it will take 1, 82,233/24,700 = approx 7.5 yrs.

Case II – monthly run of 1500 kms or less (yearly – 18000)

• Consumption of petrol car in ltr – 18000/15=1200 ltr (total kms/km per ltr).

Total amount spent on petrol = 1200 ltr * 75.00 Rs/ltr = Rs 90,000.

• Consumption of diesel car in ltr – 18000/17=1059 ltr(total kms/km per ltr).

Total amount spent on diesel = 1059 ltr * 50.00 Rs/ltr = Rs 52,950.

So the difference in amount spent on diesel and petrol is Rs 37,050 per year. In comparison to the amount you paid earlier for a diesel car is Rs 1, 35,000 more. Further if u took loan then you paid an extra interest on Rs 1, 35,000 to bank for say a five year loan i.e. @ 12.5%per annum so the extra interest u paid is 47,233. So a total of Rs 1, 82,233. Taking the saving per year and the extra cost I paid it will take 1, 82,233/37,050 = approx 5.00 yrs.

Case III – monthly run of 2000 kms (yearly -24000kms)

• Consumption of petrol car in ltr – 24000/15=1600 ltr (total kms/km per ltr).

Total amount spent on petrol = 1600 ltr * 75.00 Rs/ltr = Rs 1, 20,000.

• Consumption of diesel car in ltr – 24000/17=1412 ltr (total kms/km per ltr).

Total amount spent on diesel = 1412 ltr * 50.00 Rs/ltr = Rs 70,600.

So the difference in amount spent on diesel and petrol is Rs 49,400 per year. In comparison to the amount you paid earlier for a diesel car is Rs 1, 35,000 more. Further if u took loan then you paid an extra interest on Rs 1, 35,000 to bank for say a five year loan i.e. @ 12.5%per annum so the extra interest u paid is 47,233. So a total of Rs 1, 82,233. Taking the saving per year and the extra cost I paid it will take 1, 82,233/52,950 = approx 4.0 yrs.

Case IV – In case your car has a run of more than 3000 kms per month (yearly 36000 kms or a daily of 100 kms)

Diesel car is the one you should pick.

Few other points also to be taken into consideration:-

1. The diesel car has a very high maintenance in comparison to a petrol car almost 1.5 times of that a petrol car and that keep on increasing after first three- four years.

2. The engine parts of diesel car is almost twice d cost of a petrol one e.g. a petrol car’s piston will long for bout say 15-16 yrs or say 2,00,000 kms or even more practically never and a diesel car’s piston has to be changed say every 6-7 years or every 80,000-1,00,000 kms.

3. The diesel engine no matter how high tech it may be is always noisy u can hear its irritating sound.

4. The subsidiary cost on petrol is at present Rs 0.00 and that on diesel is Rs 16.00 so in future chances of diesel price rise increases as now the companies are independent without the govt. control.

5. The amount of pollution diesel car generates is also a lot higher in comparison to petrol car.

6. The second hand sale value of a diesel car is a lot less in comparison to petrol car even a diesel car almost zero’s its value after 90,000 kms or 7 yrs. If you go for exchange of car, percentage of depreciation per year for diesel car is high. So won’t get value of money invested after five years.

7. The LPG or CNG gas kit are not compatible with diesel engines however they run very well on a petrol engine.

8. Above all u can never get the petrol engine power in a diesel engine

So wisely evaluate your needs before buying a new car a petrol or a diesel don’t go on what others are buying it’s your hard earned money invest smartly.

Things you see are not always right, calculate, evaluate and decide before buying a new car.

Note: – the on road price of cars may vary from state to state however the difference will almost remain the same.)

Keep your computer clean with CC cleaner

Hi…….

This tool keep your system clean, will increase performance of you system. You can download it from here

CCleaner is a freeware system optimization, privacy and cleaning tool. It removes unused files from your system – allowing Windows to run faster and freeing up valuable hard disk space. It also cleans traces of your online activities such as your Internet history. Additionally it contains a fully featured registry cleaner. But the best part is that it’s fast (normally taking less than a second to run) and contains NO Spyware or Adware!

Cleans the following:

• Internet Explorer
• Firefox
• Google Chrome
• Opera
• Safari
• Windows – Recycle Bin, Recent Documents, Temporary files and Log files.
• Registry cleaner
• Third-party applications
• 100% Spyware FREE

CCleaner

Optimization and Cleaning

Features

CCleaner is our system optimization, privacy and cleaning tool. It removes unused files from your system – allowing Windows to run faster and freeing up valuable hard disk space. It also cleans traces of your online activities such as your Internet history. Additionally it contains a fully featured registry cleaner. But the best part is that it’s fast (normally taking less than a second to run) and contains NO Spyware or Adware!

Cleans the following:

Internet Explorer
Temporary files, history, cookies, Autocomplete form history, index.dat files. 

Firefox
Temporary files, history, cookies, download history, form history. 

Google Chrome
Temporary files, history, cookies, download history, form history. 

Opera
Temporary files, history, cookies, download history. 

Safari
Temporary files, history, cookies, form history. 

Other Supported Browsers
K-Meleon, Rockmelt, Flock, Google Chrome Canary, Chromium, SeaMonkey, Chrome Plus, SRWare Iron, Pale Moon, Phoenix, Netscape Navigator, Avant and Maxthon. 

Windows
Recycle Bin, Recent Documents, Temporary files, Log files, Clipboard, DNS Cache, Error Reporting, Memory Dumps, Jump Lists. 

Registry Cleaner
Advanced features to remove unused and old entries, including File Extensions, ActiveX Controls, ClassIDs, ProgIDs, Uninstallers, Shared DLLs, Fonts, Help Files, Application Paths, Icons, Invalid Shortcuts and more… 

Third-party applications
Removes temp files and recent file lists (MRUs) from many apps including Windows Media Player, eMule, Google Toolbar, Microsoft Office, Nero, Adobe Acrobat, WinRAR, WinAce, WinZip and many more… 

100% Spyware FREE
This software does NOT contain any Spyware, Adware or Viruses. 

Convert any media with Media Cope

Hi to all..

Long time no post. I found one solution for all media conversion ie Media Cope. You all will like this. You can download it from here

Media Cope is a multifunctional media software with following functions listed bellow. Audio/Video Player plays almost any audio/video file. Some of the supported formats are MP3, AAC, WMA, FLAC, RMVB, MP4, 3GP, WMV, MOV, AVI, DIVX, MPG, FLV, MKV, VOB, DAT. Audio/Video Cutter can cut almost any audio/video file and then save directly to the format of your choice like you can save audio/video directly to your iPhone or other mobile device format. Audio/Video Joiner can join almost all audio/video files and then save directly to the format of your choice. Audio Converter can convert almost any audio/video to any audio format. Video Converter can convert almost any video to any video format. You can also crop/pad videos using this. Photo Cutter can convert 100s of your photographs in few minutes. It can save a lot of time when you need to crop a lot of photographs. Photo Resizer can resize and convert your photographs with special methods. You will find it helpful as you use it. Slide Show, A masterpiece that can give your photographs a movie like feel in realtime. All you need to do is select pictures and ask it to run slide show. Also you can save your slide shows in Media Cope proprietary format MCS (Media Cope Slide Show Format) to share them or gift them to your loved ones. Slide shows made by Media Cope are approx. 5 to 15 times smaller in size than slide shows with movie effect in other video formats like made by Movie Maker in WMV format. If this is not much, Media Cope can save your slide shows in approx. 1/10th of the time taken by other slide show makers to create slide shows with movie effects. It is a revolution in the world of slide shows. Internet Tools contains Speak Text, Web Image Full Screen Viewer, both are amazing tools. Speak Text can read text on any website by just a click and other tool can view any image on a web page in full screen. Basically, Media Cope is all you need.

F-35B New Fighter Planes to Come into wars

F-35B New age Fighter Planes

The F-35 Lightning II is a stealthy (radar-evading), supersonic, multi-role fighter designed to meet United States’ and the United Kingdom’s requirement for an affordable next generation fighter. It will replace a wide range of aging fighter and strike aircraft currently in the inventories of the U.S. Air Force, the U.S. Navy, the U.S. Marine Corps and allied defense forces worldwide.

Northrop Grumman is a principal subcontractor on an F-35 industry team led by Lockheed Martin Aeronautics, Fort Worth, Texas, that is developing, demonstrating and producing three variants of this single-engine, 5th generation fighter: a conventional take-off and landing (CTOL) variant; a short-take off, vertical landing (STOVL) variant and a carrier variant (CV). The F-35 team also includes BAE Systems as a principal subcontractor.

The program’s hallmarks – affordability, survivability, sustainability and lethality – are achieved through the use of the most modern military aircraft technologies, state-of-the-art production facilities, and a high degree of commonality of airframe design, parts and systems among the three variants. The team is using advanced manufacturing techniques to enable a unique, high-rate production program. Support costs are projected to be about half that of present-day fighters.

Northrop Grumman plays a critical role in the development and production of the F-35 weapon system. The company’s contributions span six of its eight sectors and include: design, production and integration of the center fuselage of the aircraft; providing the fire control radar and electro-optical distributed aperture system, producing key avionics and communications subsystems; developing mission systems and mission-planning software; providing modeling and simulation support; developing pilot and maintenance personnel training courseware; and developing logistical support hardware and software.

The U.S., the UK and seven international partners – Australia, Canada, Denmark, Italy, the Netherlands, Norway and Turkey – are contributing to the development costs of the aircraft. Purchases by the U.S. armed forces and these partner countries combined with foreign military sales are expected to exceed 4,000 total aircraft.

Northrop Grumman is building an international F-35 supplier team focused on providing ‘best value’ to its customers. To date, the company has awarded some of its most significant subcontracts to firms based in partner countries, including an agreement to produce at least 400 center fuselages in Turkey starting in the low rate initial production phase of the program.

The F-35 Joint Strike Fighter originated in the early 1990s through the restructure and integration of several DoD tactical aircraft and technology initiatives already underway. The DoD’s goal was to use the latest technology in a common family of aircraft to meet the future strike requirements of the Services and US Allies.
On July 7 2006 the F-35 fighter was officially named “Lightning II”

The project to replace several USAF and US Navy fighters was origionally launched as ‘Joint Advanced Strike Technology’ (JAST). One of the primary goals of this effort was to come up with affordable fighters, after the Cold War funds for new combat aircraft were hard to come by.
The JAST concept defined three different concepts, based on common technology.

• The USAF wanted an affordable conventional attack aircraft with stealth, advanced avionics, and low life-cycle and operational costs, along with high reliability and good range, speed, and warload.
• The US Navy requirement for carrier (“CV” in USN nomenclature) operation was similar, but added bigger wings for low-speed carrier approaches, as well as heavier landing gear and an arresting hook for carrier landings. The Navy traditionally was biased against single-seat, single-engine aircraft, but the JAST office managed to persuade them that the new aircraft would be highly survivable.
• The USMC and the Royal Navy wanted an advanced attack aircraft with excellent STOVL characteristics for operation from forward battlefield areas, or the smaller Marine helicopter carriers and British “jump jet” carriers.

In 1994, all major aircraft manufacturers began to consider JAST designs, in 1996 the JAST office issued a request for proposals. Shortly thereafter, the JAST program was renamed to Joint Strike Fighter (JSF).

McDonnell Douglas, Boeing and Lockheed Martin offered proposals to meet the JSF request. The Boeing and Lockheed concepts were selected, both companies then began working on a demonstrator, the Boeing concept got the designation “X-32″, and the Lockheed demonstrator was called the “X-35″.

Boeing’s “X-32A” CTOL variant first flew on 18 September 2000, and Lockheeds CTOL variant just over a month later.
The demonstrators for the USMC/ Royal Navy STOVL variant were tested in 2001, and the Navy’s CV version in late 2000.

In October 2001, the Lockheed Martin X-35 was selected as the winner of the competition. Boeing was perceived as having the edge in management, while both companies were rated equally on cost and support. However, the Lockheed Martin design was seen as involving lower risk, with the lift-fan concept for the STOVL variant scoring particular points on the win.

F-35B – What Makes It Fly

Whereas conventional jet fighters need up to 3,000 feet of runway to take off, the F-35B pilot simply pushes the throttle forward and is airborne in less than 500 feet. A computer controls the lift fan, which pushes cold air down, causing the jet to float up. The air also prevents hot exhaust from entering the lift fan and stalling the engine. As the F-35B approaches 288 mph, the wings produce enough lift to let the fan disengage.

Engine Behind the jet’s supersonic speed is the Pratt & Whitney F135 turbofan. During liftoff, the rear exhaust nozzle rotates to direct the engine’s thrust downward, while a drive shaft in front of the engine turns the lift fan. Roll Nozzles On the underside of each wing, two computer-controlled roll nozzles channel a small amount of thrust from the engine to stabilize the airplane and keep it from rolling out of control.

Stealth A precisely shaped body deflects enemy radar signals away from the aircraft instead of back toward the source. An internal weapons bay further minimizes the jet’s radar “signature.”

Specifications

Type:

Short take-off, vertical landing (STOVL) stealthy, multi-role, next-generation strike fighter

Power Plant:

Pratt & Whitney – F-135 or GE/Rolls Royce GET F-136

Rolls Royce shaft-driven lift fan

Mission Radius:

Requirement – 450 nm USMC

Projected – 492 nm

Top Speed:

Supersonic

Crew:

Pilot

Weapons Payload:

15,000 lbs

Internal Weapons (Stealth):

Two air-to-air missiles

Two 1,000 lb-class air-to-ground precision weapons

External Weapons:

Variety, ~12,000 lbs

Six underwing hardpoints

Four air-to-ground and/or air-to-air missiles

Two infrared missiles

Gun pod

Cannon:

25mm missionized pod

Vertical Thrust:

40,000 lbs

Mobile Number Portability – How to change your Mobile Operator

Mobile Number Portability (MNP) is going to be fully implemented from tomorrow, January 20, 2011 throughout India. Now, you can choose the mobile operator keeping your mobile number intact. From tomorrow onwards, no need to worry about the poor connectivity or less options to choose from your current provider. Change your service provider keeping your mobile number same. Jump from GSM to CDMA and vice versa.

Affordable & Convenient

• Porting Charge only up to Rs. 19/-
• Porting time: 7 working days (15 working days in case of Jammu & Kashmir, Assam and North East service areas)

In the interest of consumers TRAI has also specified that service disruption time shall not exceed 2 hours, that too during night time.

Request for Porting

• Contact the new mobile service provider to whom you want to port your mobile number.
• Obtain Customer Acquisition Form (CAF) & Porting Form.
• Read the eligibility and other conditions carefully.
• If eligible, obtain ‘Unique Porting Code‘ by sending an SMS from the mobile number you want to port to the number ‘1900’ with text ‘PORT‘ followed by space followed by your 10 digit mobile number you want to port.
• Fill up the CAF and Porting Form.
• Submit the duly filled Porting Form and CAF along with requisite documentary proof to the mobile service provider.
• If you are a post paid subscriber, submit a paid copy of the last bill issued along with Porting Form and CAF.
• Obtain new SIM card from the new service provider

You can withdraw your porting request within 24 hrs of applying.

Activation of ported number:

• Your new mobile service provider will intimate you the date & time of porting on your mobile phone.
• Replace the old SIM with the new SIM provided by your new mobile service provider after the specified date and time.

Eligibility and Other Conditions

• You are allowed to move to another mobile service provider only after 90 days of the date of activation of your mobile connection or from the date of last porting of your mobile number, which ever is applicable.
• You are allowed to change mobile service provider within the same service area only.
• If you are a postpaid subscriber, please ensure that you have paid all the dues as per your last bill (You will have to sign an undertaking in the Porting Form also).
• If you are a Pre-paid Subscriber, please note that the balance amount of talk time, if any, at the time of porting will lapse.

Tools ‹ sachin1919 — WordPress

Tools ‹ sachin1919 — WordPress.

Hello to all

Hi

This is my first blog on the net. We all be in touch with exiting stories & facts with my blog site.

See u soon with good stuff.

 

bye…..

Sachin S Kulkarni

Hello world!

Welcome to WordPress.com. This is your first post. Edit or delete it and start blogging!